How to Apply Shea Butter for Optimal Hair
Some of you may be familiar with the saying, "There's more than one way to skin a cat," and this certainly applies to shea butter. The versatility of shea butter, as detailed in my previous blog post, "The Benefits of Shea Butter," makes it an essential ingredient in cosmetics, cleaning agents, cooking, and hair products. In this blog, I would like to share my personal application methods for unrefined shea butter. Although I use this form of shea butter on both hair wash days and non-hair wash days, my application techniques differ significantly. It's important to note that I always work with small sections of my hair at a time, never attempting to manage all of it simultaneously to prevent tangling.
On hair wash days, I undo the two-stranded twists in a small section of my hair, moisten it with a detangler, and massage it from the ends to the roots. After finger combing that section, I apply a mixture of melted shea butter (2-3 tablespoons) and extra virgin coconut oil (1 teaspoon), which I use to reduce the stickiness of the shea butter while benefiting from its conditioning properties. I have previously mentioned my preference for unrefined shea butter over the refined variety, as the former provides superior moisturization. I then retwist the segment and proceed to the next section until my entire head of hair has been treated. I refer to this as my pre-poo or pre-shampoo process.
Following this process, I cover my hair with a plastic shower cap, ensuring it covers my ears so that the heat from my scalp aids in conditioning before washing. The duration of this process varies depending on hair type and texture; for me, it typically takes about three hours due to the thickness and length of my hair. After allowing the shower cap to remain on for 15 minutes, I proceed with washing my hair.
During my hair wash routine, I shampoo and condition my hair in segments, avoiding treating the entire scalp at once. I begin by melting approximately one cup of unrefined shea butter in a microwave-safe bowl for about a minute. I then add a teaspoon of extra virgin coconut oil, melting it further for an additional 30-60 seconds. This step ensures the shea butter is melted properly, as it takes longer than coconut oil. Once melted, I mix in my conditioner (preferably one that can serve as both a rinse-out and leave-in) until evenly distributed. With the mixture prepared, I proceed with washing my hair.
To wash, I undo a small segment of the two-stranded twist, wet it with warm water, apply shampoo, rinse, and then apply the conditioner-shea butter-coconut oil mixture. I massage the mixture into the hair, ensuring full saturation. I then coil the hair to condition it before moving on to the next section. This process continues until all sections have been washed and conditioned. I then apply a clean plastic cap to enhance the conditioning effects and begin the combing process.
Being detail-oriented, my combing method reflects my meticulous nature. I lift the plastic cap, select a small hair segment, untwist it, finger comb it, and then use a regular comb (neither fine-tooth nor wide-tooth). Next, I apply a dime-sized amount of the shea butter-coconut oil mixture to seal the hair and twist it for the final style. This process is repeated until all of the hair has been combed and styled, and then I allow my hair to air dry, avoiding further manipulation for one to two weeks.
Approximately one or two weeks after my previous hair wash, I moisturize and comb my hair using the aforementioned pre-shampoo method and restyle it with two-stranded twists. This conditioning-styling process is repeated every two weeks until the next hair wash day. While time-consuming, this regimen is highly rewarding, as it significantly enhances the softness and manageability of my hair.
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